As we so often talk about “men’s fashion” in opposition to “women’s fashion”, you may think the two are separate, with a hard line between them; imaginary, but clear. On closer inspection, these firm boundaries begin to break down with the slightest pressure.
Despite the gender split in most lines, you’ll often find parallel trends, similar colours and patterns. There’s also often a play on what men’s or women’s fashion actually is, on both sides of the divide. We’d like to explore how this masculine/feminine dichotomy plays out in fashion, how it works in the wardrobe, and how you can use it to your own stylistic ends.
Gender Trouble?
First, a word about gender and sex. While clearly a hot topic and a relevant one, we don’t want to get bogged down in critical theory or sociology for our purposes - we’re talking about style after all. However a concept from Judith Butler’s famous 1990 book on critical theory, “Gender Trouble” really chimes with what we’re interested in today, believe it or not -
“There is no reason to assume that gender also ought to remain as two. The presumption of a binary gender system implicitly retains the belief in a mimetic relation of gender to sex whereby gender mirrors sex or is otherwise restricted by it.”
― Judith Butler, Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity
To put this back in plain English; gender is socially constructed as much as it is biological, and that ideas of what a man or woman “is” are not fixed. But why does this idea chime with us at Cravat Club?
It’s to do with how style works, of course! The play between hard and soft lines, bright colours and dark ones, patterns bold or subtle - these are the things that make fashion interesting. It’s also something to bear in mind when you’re picking out your outfit. What energy do you want to give off, what do you want to communicate etc., and how you can adjust your outfit towards this.
Now we have the academic bit out of the way, let’s talk about fashion…
“Masculine” vs “Feminine” Energy
Timothée Chalamet is able to mix soft flowing materials with a tailored suit to complement his boyish clean look.
You may have heard these terms before, in one way or another. Both of these refer to how somebody puts themself over, or even what makes them attractive or admirable. For a quick shorthand, it’s easy to imagine some famous examples of each. For example, if actor Tom Hardy is a good example of masculine energy, then Timothée Chalamet might be a good example of feminine energy. Similarly, you might say that if Springsteen had masculine energy, then Bowie might have feminine energy.
Bruce Springsteen bringing masculine energy in his white vest, denim shirt and neckerchief.
It’s also, of course, true of women too - think of an actor with the presence of Tilda Swinton, or a singer with the command of Nina Simone. Neither is less feminine, but there is an undeniably different energy about them both.
The interesting part comes when that falls somewhere in the middle; what side of the line does Mick Jagger fall on? What about Serge Gainsbourg? Clearly, you could argue the case all day. What it does illustrate is how presentation informs the energy you give off, and how getting it right can play with people’s expectations in all kinds of interesting ways.
Out in the Real World
So how do you make this work for you when picking out your outfits, or even, dare we say it, shopping for accessories? One of the key advantages of a garment like a cravat is that there is an instant play between the soft, luxurious sheen of the piece and the type of formal men’s outfits they tend to accompany.
We all naturally have a bearing we give off - a “vibe” for want of a better word. This will be somewhere along the axis we spoke about. While you may not be the best one to know, someone close to you definitely will. Once you’ve established where you sit, you can lean into it and get the very best out of your outfits.
For example, if you have a strong jaw, big beard or otherwise, you can bring your natural ruggedness into play with softer colours and lighter patterns. Alternatively, you can lean into the masculine with classic polka dots and darker prints, using the harder lines of your features to your advantage. Similarly, if you have a more slender build or more delicate features, you can make the most of your natural appearance by using more playful designs to emphasise them, or go for contrast with more serious, masculine tones. It’s all about using what you’ve got to your advantage, expanding your options rather than railroading you into something or other. Experimentation is the key here.
The Rise of “Soft” Tailoring
Fashions had, in recent years, begun to creep towards traditional ideas of masculinity, indeed of corporate “power dressing” - bold suits, sharp collars and shoulders, square cuts. In its place, we’re starting to see a rejection of all things macho, and the rise of what we call “soft” tailoring. This includes things such as oversized garments, draped fabrics, more rounded cuts, flowing coats, pastel colours, and a general tendency to underemphasise traditionally “masculine” elements of clothing.
This seems to be a marked and deliberate way of making men’s fashion lighter and more diffuse, while taking away some of the more imposing, dominant and unsentimental bearing that men are sometimes expected to adopt. We welcome it as an encouragement for men to think again about their dress sense, and how to work against the confines of conformity. They say all things are cyclical, and this trend is most certainly a reaction to what has come immediately before it.
Examples of How it Can Work
Silk accessories are perfect for sending an outfit down one path or the other - they add delicacy to a sombre outfit and class to a playful one. Not to mention that the very design of cravat lends itself perfectly to this kind of boundary jumping. Some ideas of how it can work -
Polka dots
A polka dot is every bit as ruggedly masculine as it is foppishly playful. In fact, with perhaps the exception of paisley, we can’t really think of a print that has a better claim to “classic” status.
For example, the DUSTIN cravat pairs a deep red with olive green polka dots for a gentlemanly finish, while the FLINT does the same with slate grey and blush pink. Being such simple patterns, these cravats adapt readily to both the wearer and their outfit, making them true chameleons.
Bright patterns, dark jackets
A dark jacket in navy, charcoal or dark brown makes a perfect canvas for experimentation, and gives you a sounding board for our boldest, most experimental patterns. You could go for soft and delicate with our JIRO cravat, with its sakura pink koi carp print, or perhaps the coral and teal waves in the YOHEI for a slightly more directly masculine feel.
Don’t miss the magic of our multiway pocket squares here either - they’re a simple yet spectacular way to give your outfit some personality. For example, the contrasting primary colours in our AOI pocket square allow for many options to go at, and works with a surprising number of wardrobe options.
Playful designs
Staying with multiway pocket squares for a moment - these elaborate, illustrative designs may look full-on, but are able to take on many subtle forms when actually worn. Because you only show a small portion of the design at any one time, they can serve many different roles for many different outfits.
The YORIMITSU II design pairs a spectacular Japanese myth theme with delicate pastel shades, playing with both colour and theme in a quite spectacular way. Similarly, the SHISHIMAI pocket square uses bright colours to stunning effect in its kabuki theatre design. You’re not limited to Japanese ideas either - our DECO ISLAND range, with its art deco-inspired illustrations, offer intricate detail to experiment with.
Don’t Fear Colour!
Our core tones range is a great place to start when incorporating brighter and bolder colours. For example, the CLARO cravat offers a subdued caramel brown to offer darker counterpoint, while the AUBERGINE wears a vibrant purple to provide a big hit of colour. Something like PAPAYA could work either as a softener for bold shades or as a bright accent in itself, while the FIESTA is unashamedly confident.
Consider your outfit and intended effect - truly you’re only limited by your imagination and your bravery here. Remember - fortune favours the bold, so never shy away from experimentation!
Rugged & Refined
Men’s fashion is really about the trade off between the rugged and the refined; the imposing and functional vs the luxurious and decorative. We think that silk accessories exemplify this in the purest form; in themselves, they’re an exotic detail, but when put to work as part of an outfit, it’s amazing what versatile pieces they become.
So style is in many ways about the trade off between the masculine and the feminine, the hard and the soft. Depending what energy you want to bring to the party, a cravat can help you give off exactly the message you want to send - in serious style. Have a look at our range and see if you can find the perfect accent to your signature aesthetic.
Leave a comment