What Makes British Tailoring?

British Tailoring has probably already conjured an image in your mind’s eye. But how did it become such a clearly defined style?

Whether we like it or not, modern fashion is a globalised, borderless business, with design often happening in one place, manufacturing in another, using materials from somewhere else entirely. Despite this, old distinctions exist. We probably all have a visual in our minds when an Italian suit is brought up for example, or when the refinement of Parisian fashion is referenced. Standing alongside those two giants is perhaps the one that has the most codified visual language of all; Classic British Tailoring.

In our own ranges, we often speak of classic British design and are proud to boast silks that are made in England, but we’d like to further explore what that means in a broader sense. What attributes mark out the British style, and what makes it different from its competitors? For example, we adore the razor-sharp cuts of Italy, and the icy modernism of Japan, but we recognise that our customers see something in our designs that is distinctly British. We’d like to put on our miner’s hat and excavate some of the meaning here, exploring quite why we like it so much.

Savile Row

Firstly, any discussion about British fashion is incomplete without mentioning the high-end tailoring that has long taken place on Savile Row. This short street in the West End of London is a byword for the highest quality men's tailoring, traditionally worn by bankers, financiers, politicians and captains of industry. Even today, you’ll find small-scale, independent tailors making the finest made-to-measure suits for their discerning client base. As an example of the pedigree we mean here, Winston Churchill's suits were made by Henry Poole & Co. of Savile Row, who still operate today. 

If Savile Row was where a gentleman got his suits, nearby Jermyn street was where he got everything else. Known historically as the preserve of shirtmakers and accessory shops, this address is every bit as prestigious, and similarly full of high-end fashion retailers and skilled tailors. It's arguably a more up-and-coming street than its more established neighbour, though these are relative terms; both belong to the old guard of high fashion in London.

Naturally, this sort of heritage brings the sort of tourist that not only appreciates fine fashions, but has money to burn. Alongside London’s high-end boutiques and department stores, no 0.1% shopping trip is complete without a fitting on the Row. All this implies certain things that are intrinsic to British style; tradition, high quality and an aristocratic attitude. 

“The English Gentleman”

The English Gentleman is a trope that follows British travellers everywhere. With Victorian adventurers and well-spoken politicians in mind, the image of the British as a nation of tea-sipping, monocled gentry with a habit of colonising and hunting foxes precedes the modern Brit all over the world. This is, needless to say, a total fabrication these days, however it is one that’s based in historical truth. Hand-in-hand with British history are long lines of privately-educated people with cut-glass accents, and the historic upper classes still dominate the workings of the country today.

There are historical precedents everywhere in popular culture; in the refined and philosophical wordplay of William Shakespeare, in the popular figure of Sherlock Holmes, in the charmingly awkward Hugh Grant of Notting Hill, or the smouldering, scowling Heathcliff. The trope has also been satirised heavily, whether in Guy Ritchie’s films or in the many cartoons depicting Churchill as an English Bulldog. In a very British way, these layers of irony are built on a clear cultural knowledge of how the world sees us, aware as we are of the country’s many achievements and sins. 

The English Gentleman conjures up a few things sartorially speaking, too. Harris tweed, three-piece suits, bowler hats, even our favourite cravats. It’s a style shorthand that is played with all the time by modern designers, and comes from a very deep base. British fashion (and society) these days is about so much more, but still this particular image of the country continues to capture imaginations.

Distinctive Aspects

So how do we distinguish British tailoring from the rest? What things set it apart? Firstly, we should say that there are many designers in different countries doing things that defy categorisation, and certainly take influences from all over the place, and the UK is no exception. We’re also going to leave out any discussion of modern tailoring, or of diaspora cultures that bring their own powerful ideas to British fashion. We’re really talking about the old-school classics here, which are very much alive and well.

British tailoring tends towards the traditional and formal, using structured cuts to give a formidable appearance. The style is certainly sharp, but should never be flashy, and has a refinement that ties into its origins in gentlemen's clubs and across the aristocracy. The damp, cool climate certainly plays a part here, so you’re much more likely to find Scottish tweeds and waxed cotton than lighter fabrics. Having said that, you’re likely to find luxurious silks used as linings and detailings, underlining the investment that this style necessitates. Beneath the often-subdued interior, you may find little touches of exotica such as the classic paisley pattern or a brightly-dyed psychedelic stitching - this is swinging London after all. 

There is an inherent conformity here, which can also be understood as “getting it”. If you’re too flashy with the accessories, you’re going to look like vulgar new money (always frowned upon by the establishment), if you skimp on quality, it’s going to show in the cut and you won’t quite get the look right. It is, quite deliberately, an exclusive club, which might be why it has proved so seductive. Whether in a suit for the stock exchange, or an outfit for shooting pheasant on the high moors, the style is very easy to identify.

Classic Names

As discussed, we neither want to name drop or to exclude great designers, but there are some brands that are essential to know if you’re looking for classic UK styles. Burberry is an iconic brand with its own traditional pattern. Barbour and Hunter are two of the most famous names in classic country wear (wellies optional). Fred Perry is a classic leisurewear brand founded by the tennis champion, and Lyle & Scott operates in a similar space. Loake shoes, and indeed Dr. Martens are bywords for good footwear. Nottingham-based Paul Smith has a famously lighter take on the style, while John Smedley is famous for knitwear and woolens. Harris tweed from the Scottish Hebrides is rightly famous too as a hardwearing, beautiful and versatile fabric. If you want to go all out, there are always a host of exceptional tailors on Savile Row, who continue to make outfits of the very highest quality. We’d like to humbly raise our hand here, and remind readers that all Cravat Club cravats, pocket squares and ties are made in England from 100% silk, in patterns both traditional and modern, and are all of the most luxurious quality.

The Past & Future

As an avowedly modern, post-industrial country, the UK tends to look to the future often. However, there is an acute awareness of the past, with buildings that predate the towns built  around them and a complex legacy of fading, but not-quite-faded grandeur. As such, these traditional styles exist alongside modern ideas from all over the world, and in many ways, it’s a miracle they are still going strong. They have remained as a stylistic signature of the country, and in our view are rightly celebrated. 

If you’re a fan of the gentlemanly look, and want to have a little of the debonair feel of British tailoring, why not have a look at our range of silk accessories? There’s plenty here to bring out the gentleman in you, and to lift your style up into the upper echelons of society.